Petrolo Bòggina A 2016 (94 W&S)

“Bòggina is an 11-acre plot of sangiovese vines first planted in 1952. Sanjust began producing a pure sangiovese from the vineyard in 2006, and five years later began vinifying a small portion of the fruit in terra-cotta amphorae. Production of Bòggina A (A is for “amphora”) is now up to 5,000 bottles, about equal to Bòggina C (C for “classic,” also recommended here). Bòggina A macerates on the skins in sealed amphorae for about six months, and remains in the vessels for another six months after the skins have been removed, absorbing small amounts of oxygen without any wood influence. The result is a wine with exuberant scents of crushed rose petals and flavors of freshly squeezed red cherries woven together by brisk acidity, with a clarity of fruit that transcends the Bòggina C bottling. Tiny, pebbly tannins give a fine rasp to the flavors, and notes of sun-ripened tomatoes develop as the wine sits in the glass. It’s a fascinating and delicious wine for anyone who loves pure sangiovese.”