Italy: Stone & Smoke

Ornellaia’s Poggio alle Gazze 2023 takes a well-deserved spotlight in Tom Hyland’s April column for Decanter which explores the evolving identity of Italian Sauvignon Blanc, a category defined by its remarkable ability to translate terroir across regions. Framing it as a “chameleon variety,” Hyland traces how Sauvignon Blanc expresses itself from the alpine precision of Alto Adige to the coastal warmth of Tuscany, and underscores Italy’s growing authority with the grape.

Poggio alle Gazze stands out as a benchmark for Bolgheri’s richer, more textural style. Crafted as a Mediterranean blend led by Sauvignon Blanc and layered with Vermentino, Viognier, and Semillon, the wine is highlighted for its aromatic lift, supple structure, and vibrant freshness—capturing the sunlit energy and complexity of the Tuscan coast. Poggio alle Gazze exemplifies the Bolgheri’s ability to deliver white wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, with both generosity and finesse.

Check out the article in the April 2026 print edition of Decanter, and below.