Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 2010 (96 W&S)
“Selected over the course of a series of passes through Baumard’s 10-acre vineyard in Savennières, aged for nine months in stainless steel on the fine lees, this is a wine that keeps getting better each time you pass it by your nose and take a luscious sip. Immediately, it buzzes with quince flavor, delicate to the touch, expansive and bold as the fruit crests in a wave over sandstone and schist. What may seem at first merely delicious becomes numinous as it engages with oxygen, capturing the grandeur of the Loire more often appreciated in the châteaux and ancient cathedrals than in a young chenin blanc. Cellar this for ten years for a grand tour of Savennières.”
Domaine des Baumard
Baumard’s Savennières Trie Spéciale bottling is in many ways the apotheosis of the appellation, and is produced only in great years (’89, ’90, ’95, ’97, ’00, ’10, ’14 to date). Exceptionally ripe bunches are hand-harvested in successive passes (‘tries’) through the estate vineyard, resulting in a concentrated wine of enormous structure and intensity, requiring many years to unwind into a lanolin-textured wine with flavors of stone fruits, spices, and minerals, and great length. One of France’s greatest white wines.
Loire Valley, France
Domaine des Baumard has been planted with vines since 1634, and has remained in the same family since then. In the mid-20th century, however, is when the estate started to build a reputation as one of the greatest white wine producers in the Loire Valley, and the world.