Rotem and Mounir Saouma Arioso 2014 (96 W&S)

“When Rotem and Mounir Saouma aren’t working in Beaune at Lucien LeMoine, their micro-negociant firm, they are in Châteauneuf, tending the 21 acres of vines they’ve acquired since arriving in 2006. The attraction wasn’t only affordable land; it was also grenache, a variety they find compelling. Arioso is an ode to the variety, pulled from the first parcel they purchased, a north-facing plot in Pignan planted in 1942. They treat the fruit gently, using ambient yeasts and no pump-overs or punch-downs, for three to four weeks, then let it sit in 500-liter barrels with all the lees for 36 months. The wine sings, the flavors jewel-toned in their clarity and precision, etched by the fine acidity. “Red wine in a white dress,” one taster said, remarking on its elegance. If you open it now, decant it a few hours before serving; otherwise age it for another five to ten years.”